Only The Row could have made me willingly make a post about a (pre) fall collection with cashmere and fur all over, considering I can’t even look at my sweaters anymore and don’t want to think about anything related to winter till November, but even the beauty of this collection can’t hide the downside of this see now-buy now approach: something feels off, season wise. Had I seen this collection back in January when it was first presented to editors and buyers, I’d be all over it trying to recreate the stylings and going on shopping sprees. Now, it still looks elegant as hell, it just doesn’t make me lust after it. So let’s just put it here and come back to this moment in October.
If I ask you to name three brands Nehera reminds you of, I’m pretty sure the answers will be Christophe Lemaire, The Row and Hermès (at least mine were, respectively) and it’s no coincidence. Samuel Drira used to be a creative consultant for all those brands before becoming Nehera’s creative director in 2014 and he seamlessly applied the modern fluidity that is the foundation of the three brands and a new, contemporary identity to the 80 years old Nehera.
Bassike is no stranger to TFM, I’ve been happily featuring them since F/W 2013 (3 years in fashion life is like 21 years in human life) so it’s safe to say that by now we are in a serious relationship. After launching the original collection of organic cotton jerseys in 2006, introducing denim in 2007 and seasonal mainline collections in 2008, Deborah Sams and Mary-Lou Ryan’s Bassike quickly became the favorite Aussi brand of many with their simple and structured designs and high quality sustainable wardrobe staples. Anyone who likes COS would go bananas for Bassike, I guarantee it. Anyone who doesn’t like COS, please let’s not talk again (kidding. or am I?).
Feather-free wadding staffed puffer coats and coats made with skin-free skin are the new awesome additions to the animal loving McCartney empire, just when you think she can’t get better. I don’t understand the coherence of the pink pieces in the collection but the metallic pleats, velvet bombers and quilted shorts together with classic Stella tailoring hypnotized me so much that I’m willing to ignore the flaws of the collection.
It was first when Kym Ellery started to dual-show her collection (first in Sydney then in Paris) that I asked myself the question: but which season is she designing for? There is a distinct difference between the two cities, as distinct as summer and winter, and I was really confused about how to work that line. Then, as I examined her collections I realized there was no summer or winter, or any other season for that matter, in her collections. There is no season in any collection anymore. There are coats on S/S runways and sweaters are paired with sandals at F/W shows. Sure it’s a styling hell especially for people like us, but it’s always summer – or better yet, always spring – somewhere. And like those people weren’t lucky enough, just like Kym Ellery, Phoebe Philo’s creative juices cater for them all year long. It was a rather laid back Céline collection shown today, like the ones at the very beginning, where no extravagant shoes or over the top appliqués were present so …